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We had dinner that night with Ri Yong Pil, a Foreign Ministry official in his mid-fifties, who is the vice-president of the Institute for American Studies.

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Gregarious and confident, he served eight years in the Army, learned English, and became a diplomat. He raised a glass of Taedonggang beer and toasted our arrival. We were in a private hotel dining room that felt like a surgical theatre: a silent, scrubbed, white-walled room bathed in bright light. Two waitresses in black uniforms served each course: ginkgo soup, black-skin chicken, kimchi, river fish, and vanilla ice cream, along with glasses of beer, red wine, and soju.

The U. But in Pyongyang a foreign guest eats embarrassingly well. That bitter lesson is kept in our hearts. We will die in order to protect that dignity and sovereignty. After several more toasts, Ri loosened his tie and shed his jacket.

His dear leader: Meet North Korea's secret weapon - an IT consultant from Spain | The Independent

He had some questions. A President can do a lot without Congress, I said.

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Is it true? McMaster, the national-security adviser. I turned in early. My room was furnished in the style of Versailles by way of Atlantic City—champagne-colored leather and gold-painted trim. The room was equipped with a TV, but, instead of North Korean programming, the only options were Asian satellite channels. There was no news to be found. I flipped past a Christian evangelist and a Singaporean cooking show, and drifted off to the sight of sumo wrestlers colliding. Trump is the fourth U. Bill Clinton signed a deal in which North Korea agreed to freeze its nuclear development in exchange for oil and a civilian reactor, but neither side fulfilled its commitments.

George W. Bush refused bilateral negotiations, then switched tacks and convened what are known as the Six-Party Talks. Security Council in its passage of the eighth round of sanctions against North Korea in eleven years.

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But now the basic facts, accumulated by American, European, and Chinese intelligence agencies, are clear. North Korea has between twenty and sixty usable nuclear warheads, and ICBMs capable of hitting targets as far away, perhaps, as Chicago. It has yet to marry those two programs in a single weapon, but American intelligence agencies estimate that it will achieve that within a year. A former U. In recent talks, when Americans have asked whether any combination of economic and diplomatic benefits, or security guarantees, could induce Pyongyang to give up nuclear weapons, the answer has been no.

North Koreans invariably mention the former Libyan leader Muammar Qaddafi. Inside the Trump Administration, there is disagreement about how to handle North Korea. Are they for self-defense, as North Korea claims, or will Kim use them to achieve the unfulfilled ambition of the Korean War—forcing reunification with South Korea? The White House could try to deter North Korea from using or selling its weapons—or it could start a preventive war. He doubted that America would actually launch a full-scale attack, and, as a result, he miscalculated the odds of destroying himself and his regime.

A warm drizzle was falling on Pyongyang the morning after my arrival, as we left the Kobangsan Guest House to see the city. More than any other capital that has been marooned by politics—Havana or Rangoon or Caracas—Pyongyang presents a panorama from another time. Soviet-era Ladas and ancient city buses ply the streets, while passengers stick their heads out the windows in search of cool air. Pyongyang is a city of simulated perfection, without litter or graffiti—or, for that matter, anyone in a wheelchair.

Its population, of 2. The city is surrounded by checkpoints that prevent ineligible citizens from entering. For decades, there were few cars on the streets, but now frequent foreign visitors marvel at the growth in traffic. Pyongyang is the emptiest, quietest capital in Asia, but it is changing, slowly, driven by the legacy of famine. Between and , a combination of mismanagement, droughts, and flooding paralyzed North Korean food production, killing up to three million people.

Hundreds of thousands went to China in search of food and work, and many returned to their families having seen a better quality of life. North Koreans, outside their state-assigned jobs, sell homemade noodles in thriving markets; they drive private buses; they rent out apartments by the hour for courting couples. Officially, there is no private homeownership, but, in practice, people pay for better units. An ordinary one-bedroom apartment in Pyongyang costs three or four thousand dollars; the most luxurious offerings sell for hundreds of thousands.

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On the streets of Pyongyang, there are flashes of modernity, even style. Jeans are still practically taboo, because of their association with America. Now and then, I saw people hunched over cell phones. But many North Koreans have had some exposure to Chinese, American, and South Korean entertainment, smuggled over the border on SD cards that are small enough to be inserted into a phone.

They want to manage that. Every year since assuming power, he has unveiled a new residential complex in the capital, as well as theatres, a water park, and a new airport. This past spring, he attended the opening of more than three thousand new apartments on Ryomyong Street, and Mr.

Pak was eager to show off the buildings. I passed couples whispering on park benches, and a grandmother following a toddler across fresh asphalt.

North Korea under Communism Report of an Envoy to Paradise

A black Lexus, buffed to a high shine, honked its way through pedestrians. Officially, most private cars are provided as gifts from the Supreme Leader, but insiders acquire cars by registering them in the names of state enterprises. We came upon a van fitted with oversized loudspeakers on its roof. I spent ten years abroad as a foreign correspondent, mostly in China, Egypt, and Iraq, but little of that experience is comparable to reporting in North Korea.

Based on my requests, the government gave me an itinerary and then escorted me from place to place. But the country has become incrementally more open to scholars and reporters. In , journalists who accompanied Secretary of State Madeleine Albright on a visit travelled on a bus with covered windows and were warned not to take photographs. Today, the constraints are more subtle.

The principal, Pak Yong Chul, ushered me into a permanent exhibition on the ground floor, dedicated to the two-hour visit that Kim paid to the school on July 2, The walls of the exhibition are lined with photographs of Kim in his signature gray suit, striding through the facilities, holding an unlit cigarette between his fingers. I stood in front of a large photo of Kim touching a fuzzy red blanket.

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The principal stepped aside, and, with a flourish, revealed, in a Plexiglas box, the blanket. So it was with other specimens—the white painted chair that he blessed with his presence in the lunchroom; the simple wooden chair from the language lab, on which he rested from his labors—all preserved under glass, like the relics of a saint. I asked Pak Yong Chul how it felt to be visited by the leader, and his eyes widened.

Upstairs, I stopped by a history class, where ten- and eleven-year-old students sat in perfect rows.